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H. SCHOENFELDER'S 



New ai|d Improved Metliod 



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putting all kinds ofi K'adies ^mjmente. 



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Every Body his own Cutter. 



Invented and Published 



BY 



H. SCHOENFELDER, 




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Ne^v Yoi-k. 



1879. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by H. SCHOENFELDER, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



PREFACE. 

With pleasure I call the attention of the public 
in general, especially Dressmakers, to my "New and 
Improved System" of cutting a perfect fitting Ladies 
garment, a system simple in its construction, based 
on mathematical and practical principles, which can 
easily be mastered, and will compensate the pupil a 
thousand times over with its results. It has afforded 
many years of constant study and experimenting, and 
stands without a rival in Europe and America. 



To acquire a perfect knowledge of the "New and 
Improved System" of cutting Ladies garments it is 
necessary to impress upon the mind all " points" and 
strictly follow the instructions given. 

There are twenty five scales for the system, num- 
bered accordingly from 25 to 50, designated for the 
respective sizes. The size of any garment is found by 
measuring around the body, closely under the arms 
over the chest (not the highest part). Thus, the num- 
ber of inches contained in the above mentioned measure 
constitutes the size; for instance, if the measure is 36, 
scale No. 36 is used; if 40, scale 40, &c. 

If the tape used, is not a regular inch measure, 
take the half of the above named measure (designed 
for finding the size) and find the scale by it. 

Each scale is the. half of bust-measure and has 
9 parts, the first part is divided in half and thirds — 
called %, y 2l %, 1 — 9. 

(Paste the scales on linen or pastboard before using.) 



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i st. Place a square on the paper designed for the 
purpose, draw a line from left to right and downwards, 
(forming a left upper square corner) then taking a scale, 
place it on the corner from left to right, dotting %> 2, 5. 
Again place the scale in the position on 2 A, dotting 5 
and 9. 




2nd. Place the square under the 5, 5, 9, drawing a 
square line downwards. Place the scale under the first 
dot 5 on square line downwards, dotting 2, then under 
next 5 on square line downwards dotting 1 %. Place 
the scale on the upper left corner downwards, dotting 
Vi and 8, beginning at K ; place the scale in the same 
position, dotting 1 and 4. Then place the square on 
dot 4 to the right and draw a square line. Place the 
scale in the same position on square line and dot 9, 
(full length of scale) also draw square line from dot 8 
to the right — then draw line downwards from the upper 
right square corner (dot 9) passing through dot 9 
(centre line) as illustrated. 




3rd. Place the scale on the right upper square cor- 
ner downward and dotting j£, move the scale on dot yi 
to left upper line and dotting i}i } draw line in the same 
position, also from dot i % to dot 2, which is dotted 
below the first five upper line downwards, and draw a 
line from the left dot 2 upper line to dot 1%, dotted 
below the second dot 5, — place the square between 
dot 2, upper line and dot 1 front, drawing a square: 
than place the scale on dot 4, front and centre line to 
the right, dotting 4, in the position of one hight. 

Place the scale on back and centre line (dot 9.) to 
the left dotting 3^ in the position of one hight — place 
scale on the upper left corner down front line dotting 
$ 2 A and draw a line to the right in the position of one 
below the centre line, (as illustrated.) 




4th. Place the scale on dot $ 2 A front line to the 
right dotting \A and 2%, drawing square line down- 
wards from both dots; then place the scale on front 
line on dot 1 to right, dotting X A, then draw a line from 
dot 2 A upper line, lining V2 to dot 4 &c. — make all 
rounding and sloping as Illustration. 



(The numbers without moving scale to find if any mistake is made.) 




5th. Now draw lines from Armhole down to belt in 
certain parts according to styles and fashion, the depth 
of the darts is to find by placing the belt measure from 
back line to front, all what is left to the front line take 
in parts for the depth, make all sloping on back and side 
seams as illustrated in plate 5; gives also the sloping 
below belt for princess dress and tight fitting garments. 



6th. Now begin with the use of the measure taken 
on the person, the pattern is attended for — place the 
tapemeasure across the chest, taken over the highest 
part; if the chest is higher or fuller as proportion make it 
wider on the armhole, also in the seam halfway down to 
the belt, to get the regular armholewidth again, see Il- 
lustration Plate 6 — then place the tape measure on the 
front, down, the back, in the side from centre line to the 
belt, thereby proving if the measure taken corres- 
ponds with drawing. If the waist is shorter or longer 
as proportion, make the alteration accordingly, also if 
the person naturally bends forward or backwards as 
given in Plate 6 Fig. straight Fig. : back- 
wards bending Fig. forward bending &c. ■ When 

taking measure it is necessary to give a sharp look at 
the person and is to be taken as follows: 

35) Bust measure round under the arms (closely) 
above the chest not over the highest part. 

24) Belt measure round. 

16) Chest " from arm to arm. 

13) Back 

15) Backlength measure from neck to belt. 

7) Sidelength " " under arm to belt. 

13) Frontlength " " neck to belt. 




7th. Plate 7 gives a loose double breasted Saque 
cc — - — ; halflose saque, aabb and most tight 



fitting saque 



and is to take the size of waist pat- 



tern and part the seams accordingly to fashion, also 
cut each seam a little wider for outside garments. 
The Illustration gives all the sloping. 




Plate 8 is given a cape or circular and is to be cut 
as follows : take the waist pattern drawn for the size of 
figure, cut it under the arm in part, put the front on 
left corner line, the back on the square line form neck 
and shoulder seams and dot the length with a tape- 
measure then rounded as illustrated. 




9th. Plate 9, is given a goir or princess skirt and is 
to be cut in six parts for short walking length, each on 
bottom 18 and top 8 inch, then draw line and slope 
according to the width of hips and belt; a long train 
skirt is to be cut wider on bottom according to the 
length. 




io The coatsleeves is to be made by placing the 
square on, in forming a right upper corner, draw a line 
downwards and to the left dot on 4 , 12, 20 inch, draw 
square lines to left dot by 4 & 12, "one inch to left 
also dotting 9 inch on upper corner line, draw square 
line downwards dot 2 inch and 1 to the right, make 
all sloping as illustrated. 



- 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 






013 973 173 6 



'library of congress 



013 973 173 6 



penmatifs* 

pH&5 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 973 173 6 



